Travels with Zen-Aida » Gardens, Parks, Nature

Japan: Endless views of Mt. Fuji

zda — Sun, 13 Mar 2011 22:16:15 +0000

Fuji-san (as the Japanese reverently refer to their iconic highest mountain) is like a little child – it demands attention: I am here, I want you to look at me, pay attention to me, to my moods, to my cloud hat, to the sun’s rays as they caress my cake-frosting top, to the wind as it whips around my almost perfect cone. It is easy to see why the famous 19^th century Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai created a wood-block series entitled “36 views of Mt. Fuji”. Since his time, Fuji-san has surely been the most depicted mountain in the world.

Although this was my fifth trip to Japan, it was the first time that I saw Mt. Fuji this clearly in the early morning without a wisp of a cloud, then with a little cloud hat forming on to the afternoon, when a cloud cover moved in and engulfede all 3,776.24 m (12,389 ft) completely.

After the devastating earthquake of March 11, it is reassuring to take a look at this webcam and see Fuji-san in its regal and serene splendor.

Japan: Totorri sand dunes

zda — Sun, 06 Mar 2011 16:51:05 +0000

When you think of Japan, sand dunes and beaches are not the first thing that come to mind. And yet, they do exist! Tottori, a small city on the West Coast, can boast to being the home to Japan’s largest sand dunes, stretching an impressive 10 km along the coast, at times up to 2 km deep. Fine sand, spectacular scenery, good swimming and some very hot onsen (hot springs), as well as fresh seafood (abalone is a local specialty) make for a great getaway break from city life in the summer. The area is also known for its juicy and fragrant pears.

In 1964, the Academy Award nominated movie “Woman in the Dunes” by Hiroshi Teshigahara was filmed on location here. Today, you can have a “Lawrence of Arabia” experience by riding a camel, or at least having your photo taken next to one.

Japan: How to get to the Snow Monkeys

zda — Fri, 18 Feb 2011 12:10:59 +0000

The journey to see the monkeys is half the fun, but involves some planning. Think of it as a day excursion and be sure to allow time. A snowy day is ideal because the chances of seeing many monkeys in the water are good – afer all, they want to get warm! On a nice day, they will most likely be out and about, not in the water.

The easiest way for tourists to get to the Jigokudani Monkey Park is taking the Nagaden company bus from the Nagano train station: Take the East Exit, walk downstairs to the bus terminal. The bus leaves from quay 3 or 4. It runs once an hour (10 past the hour), costs 1300 Yen one way and takes 40 minutes. Be sure to get a flyer with the return times from the driver.

If you want to go by train or car, consult your guide book, there are several options, but all seem to be longer and more of a hassle than taking this bus. All, however, involve walking the last 1.6 kilometers (about 40 minutes) to Hell’s Valley at 850 meters above sea level.

The Jigokudani Monkey Park is open throughout the year. From April to October the hours are 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., from November to March 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Tips for the excursion:

Altogether you will be gone a good 5 hours departing from Nagano (40 minute drive, 40-60 minute walk, about 60 minutes with the monkeys, about 40 minutes walk back, 40 minutes drive back to Nagano).

If you need/want to have a snack or something to drink – and haven’t brought anything along - go to the gas station next to the Kanbayashi Onsen Guchi bus stop upon arrival to get yourself something to take up. Chances are the kiosk at the monkey spa is closed.

Be sure to wear good walking boots with a non-skid sole.

At the entrance to the park – you still have those 1.6 km to go – there are some heavy-duty straw rope pieces that can be tied around your shoes to help you not to skid. These are free of charge and hang on a branch just before the steps start.

The path is not secured by rails and, while not necessarily narrow, it is not wide, either. As it was carved out of the mountain side, it drops off steeply most of the way. On the map it is euphamistically called a “promenade”!

When I visited, the small kiosk at the monkey spa was closed. The only resting area was a rustic shack selling the entry fee ( 500 Yen per adult) and faded postcards. It also housed the restrooms and – at least the ladies – had a Western-style toilet with heated seat. A very welcome feature!

If you want to eat or drink something, bring your own. Several onigri rice cakes (the triangular ones wrapped in seaweed) would be just right now: a light (weight) and nutritious snack, easy to carry and consume. No tea or coffee is sold. There is only one vending machine, which may or may not be working.

Be kind to your good DSLR camera: If it is snowing or worse, raining, bring at least a small hand towel from your hotel to wrap your camera and lens in. Moisture and electronics don’t mix.

There is a great sense of comradery amongst the visitors, sitting on the tree stumps in the hut, trying to warm-up in front of a weak electric heater and communing with the old stuffed Japanese Serow goat on show before heading out again into the cold and wet. Let’s hope it stays this way for a long time to come and does not get replaced with some glitzy mountain resort!

Japan: A visit to see the Snow Monkeys!

zda — Thu, 17 Feb 2011 11:34:31 +0000

When the baby monkey gazed up at me from the safe folds of her mother’s warm embrace, well, who wouldn’t melt? Ever since seeing a report on TV about the red-faced Macaque monkeys enjoying the natural volcanic hot springs near Nagano, I had wanted to visit them. And now I was here, communing mutely with furry mother and child.

The story goes that an adventurous female monkey decided to go into the hot waters one winter. Or maybe she fell in? After all, wet water is not a natural habitat for monkeys. She must have communicated the pleasure of her experience to the others in her group because ever since then, these monkeys have been known to seek out the warm waters as a social hangout. Grooming and dozing are their main activities. When they have had enough, they come out, shake themselves and the dense fur quickly dries and insulates them against the cold.

The Jigokudani Yaen-Koen - which means Hell’s Valley – nature preserve was established in 1964 within the Joshin-Etsu Kogen National Park. The 200-300 monkeys living there are said to be wild, but this is a relative term: true, they are not caged and run around freely; however, they are fed by staff and have no fear of humans. In fact, you have to watch your step as you may be in their way as they race up or down a pathway. They are also very used to being photographed, with lenses and shutters practically popping in their faces a lot of the day. Nevertheless, they are wild animals and unpredictable, so a skirmish with a lot of screeching and chasing can and does break out occasionally. By and large, however, they are a peaceful lot and will leave you alone if you don’t encroach on their personal space.

There is no guarantee that the monkeys will be in onsen (hot springs). But on the day I visited it was snowing lightly and there were about three dozen monkeys enjoying the waters and about as many visitors. Their seed lunch had just been distributed, so they were actively picking through the snow for food.

By the warm flowing river, a plastic pipeline had been laid (to feed the pool) and it was warm, too. Predictably, the pipeline was appropriated by the monkeys as a “heating pad”.

Altogether I would say that the humans behaved as well as the monkeys: each respected their space and went about their business – the monkeys enjoying their hot spring and grooming, the visitors quietly photographing and filming them. A perfect symbiosis?

Click here for a live webcam of the monkey spa.

See also my post about getting to Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Japan: Tokyo’s Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

zda — Sun, 06 Feb 2011 23:37:47 +0000

It was a perfect early Spring day: sunshine and temperatures of about 10 degrees. Time to stroll through one of Tokyo’s largest city center parks. The early narcissus were in full bloom under the still barren cherry tree branches, attracting avid photographers. Also out were early Ume (plum) blossoms, which attracted some cute green finches.

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden covers 57.6 hectares and dates back to an Imperial mandate of 1906. It was laid out as a European style park, with a formal French rose garden, an extensive chrysanthemum field tended by gardeners from the Imperial Household, an English landscape garden, an azalea hill, a traditional Japanese garden, and a large greenhouse (undergoing renovation, re-opens in 2012).

Year ‘round there will always be a reason to visit this lovely garden: in Spring, about 1300 cherry trees representing 65 different varieties must be an astonishing sight. These are followed by the azaleas, then the roses in Summer and the chrysanthemums in Fall. What a visual treat for those living and working in the skyscrapers surrounding the garden!

Japan: Tokyo Bird Carver’s Club

zda — Sat, 05 Feb 2011 23:10:48 +0000

Ornithologists are a breed apart. And ornithologists who are also wood carvers surely form a distinct sub-category. In Tokyo, the “Bird Carver's Club” exhibited its masterpieces at the Shinjuku-gyoen Garden. And masterworks they were: from the right proportions to the distinctive details of each species, each piece was astonishingly life-like. The hours of study, contemplation and handiwork that went into every little sculpture can only be guessed at and admired.

Iceland: Volcano-walking on Krafla

zda — Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:56:41 +0000

After all the impossible-to-pronounce names in Iceland, a simple one: Krafla. Simple name, powerful landscape. Always windy. Not a tree in sight. At most, earth-hugging miniature purple flowers, several types of moss and very pretty white pompons atop green stalks. Krafla is a volcanic area and a geothermal powerstation in the north of Iceland, near Lake Myvatn. The region is known for its volcanic activity - there are 29 outbreaks in recorded history, the last one as recent as 2007. It includes the crater Víti (meaning „hell“ in Icelandic – in former times, it was believed that the entrance to hell was under volcanoes), with an easy promenade around its rim offering stunning views into the 34-meter, deep-green waters of the lake. A rudimentary marked path takes you past several burbling mud pots and rocky fisures emiting sulphuric fumeroles. A very worthwhile excursion showing the beauty of the volcanic world.

Iceland: Drangey Island, a puffin paradise

zda — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 22:02:30 +0000

Even the islands around Iceland are volcanic in origin. So, too, Drangey, a 180 meter high steep-cliffed, tuff-stone blob of about 20 hectares in diameter, that is the remnant of a 700,000 year old volcano dominating the Skagafjoerdur fjord in the north of Iceland. Now uninhabited (except for a small cottage for bird catchers), it was supposedly the last refuge and place of death of the legendary outlaw Grettir, protagonist of the Icelandic “Grettis Saga”, from around the 11^th century.

A favorite place for Puffins, black-legged Kittiwakes and Auks to nest and breed, it also attracts egg collectors and bird catchers, in a good year more than 200,000.

We reached Drangey Island by fishing boat from Reykir. The fisherman and his son had built about 50 concrete steps leading up to the plateau. However, about two weeks earlier, a slight earth tremor had sent some substantial boulders tumbling down and destroying the arduously constructed steps. Now there was a system of ropes in place for visitors wanting to go up. I did not have appropriate shoes on, so I stayed below, but my friend – with better shoes – ventured up the very steep zig-zag path.

Because of the cliffs being very steep, many accidents happened over time. It is said that in the 13^th century, the Bishop Gudmundur the Good decided to consecrate the island in order to minimize accidents. He was roped down the cliffs around the island, throwing holy water around and blessing the cliffs. Suddenly a huge hairy hand came out of the cliffs and cut off all but one of his – already blessed – strands of rope that held him aloft. A somber voice told him to leave that part of the cliffs to the spirits who dwelt there. It is said that the good bishop stopped immediately, understanding that there had to be a place for other Beings. Ever since then, that part of the island is called The Heathen Cliff and anyone attempting to climb up (or being roped down) that area is supposed to recite the Lord’s Prayer.

Iceland: Hotpooling with heroes

zda — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 11:13:42 +0000

Although the north west region of Iceland was only permanently settled by Norwegians in the mid 19^th century, a natural hot pool located about 18 km north of the town of Saudhakrokur was already mentioned as being enjoyed by the great outlaw hero Grettir, protagonist of Grettis Saga, one of the famous Icelandic sagas from the Middle Ages. You guessed it: I was headed for that hot pool!

We were told about the Grettislaug hot pool over dinner but warned that the access road was unpaved and very rough. Undaunted, and even though it was after 10 p.m., we decided to give it a try. Thanks to Saudhakrokur being only about 100 km south of the Arctic Circle and since it was the beginning of August, the sun had not set yet. Crawling along at 25 km per hour on gravel, with only some sheep and a few cute Icelandic horses looking up to see us go by, we reached the end of the road and a closed cow gate. On the other side stood a simple wooden house with a sign "Reykir" on it, next to a small camping site. Looking down toward the sea, there were some steam plumes visible amidst rocks, reassuring us that this was the place we were looking for.

After asking for permission to go down to the pool, we drove down to within 40 meters of the sea. Not a soul in sight except for seagulls. By now it was about 11 p.m., the sun had set, the light was slowly fading and the low clouds added to a slightly eerie atmosphere. Excellent opportunity for skinny dipping! Ohhhh, the delight of clearest warm sweet thermal water of about 39° C - absolutely perfect! There were two pools, one larger, the other smaller, enclosed with medium sized natural stones of the common variety and ground covered with black sand. Standing on this sand, occasional warmer water bubbled up from the earth’s interior through my toes. A magical experience indeed! And all this within 30 meters of the ocean!

We decided to come back early next day (this time with swimsuits on) and were lucky enough to meet the owner of the place taking a morning swim: a venerable gentleman with a shock of white hair and sparkling eyes, speaking limited English and very proud of his 10 children and 21 grandchildren all of them now scattered in all parts of Iceland and some abroad. He had built the stone enclosures to the pools himself and operated the campsite as well as being a fisherman. It is this type of encounter that makes individual travel so special and unique. Next expedition: to Drangey Island with his boat to see puffins and other birds!

Iceland: Surprising Sauðárkrókur

zda — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 20:32:52 +0000

Pronounced Saudhárkrókur or Sauthárkrókur it literally means sheep-river-hook and refers to the place where the river Sauðá meets the ocean. The sand on the river banks is of the finest quality, super fine as any sand found in the Caribbean, only it demonstrates its volcanic heritage by being dark grey in color.

Nowadays Sauðárkrókur is a town of about 3000 inhabitants in the northwest of Iceland. It is a center for the shrimp fishing industry and for the district’s commerce and services. As one of the pictures attests, there is also at least one artist in town as seen on the wall painting of one of the shrimp processing factories, which could easily carry the subtitle “Hommage à René Magritte”. And a sculptor whose statue of the ever present Icelandic horse graces Main Street.

The town’s claim to celebrity fame: Marlene Dietrich slept here when she passed through Iceland on one of her “Entertaining the American Troops” missions during World War II – in a comfortable wooden house made originally in Norway in the early 1820s, taken apart, transported to Iceland and ultimately to Sauðárkrókur and built together again there. Since 1884 it has housed the Hotel Tindastóll and can thus pride itself with being the oldest hotel in all of Iceland. You, too, can sleep in the Marlene room, though the mattress (thankfully) is a new one by now.