Luis Cousiño Squella (1835 - 1873) never saw the palace finished, since he died from tuberculosis at the age of 38 in Perú.  His young and beautiful widow, Isidora Goyenechea, then only 37 and mother of seven children, took on the running of the family enterprises.  Not only did she take over, but she expanded the business empire, including having the South American first hydroelectric installed by Thomas A. Edison's company.  She never remarried and, like Queen Victoria, wore black until her own death in Paris in 1897 at the age of 61. Her remains were transferred with great pomp and homage to be buried in Chile.  Her will set apart a substantial part of her fortune for the construction of several churches, schools and homes for disabled miners, as well as a hospital close to the mines with generous facilities for women and children.

Only the finest building materials and furnishings were used and since the family business also had a shipping fleet, these materials could be easily brought from Europe:  Italian marbles and majolica tiles, parquet flooring and custom designed and hand-carved furniture in exotic woods such as American oak, ebony, mahagony, walnut, French Sèvres and Limoges as well as German Meissen porcelaines, French and Italian silks and velvets, Belgian crystal chandeliers, and so forth.  The first elevator in Chile was even installed. It is indicative of the contemporary fashion of the time that the representative portraits hanging in the central hall of Don Luís show him in a pose akin to King Ludwig II of Bavaria and Doña Isidora painted in the style reminiscent of the German painter Franz Xaver Winterhalter (who portrayed Empress Sissi of Austria amongst other royalty and society notables).

Built around a central atrium hall, there were twelve salons on the main floor, each for a different use:  the grand dining room, a golden hall for formal events and balls, a music room with a grand piano, a tea room, an arms room, a Pinacoteca where the most important paintings and library were displayed. The private bedrooms and sitting rooms were on the second floor.  The third floor housed rooms for governesses and tutors.  Amazingly, this vast domestic home was only ever occupied by seven family members at one time - and about thirty sevice staff.

Times, family structures and needs changed, as well as upkeep costs escalating. In 1940 the palace including contents was put on auction.  At the last minute, an agreement was reached between the Municipality of Santiago and the family:  for a symbolic sum, the palace was sold to the city, who used it to put up high dignitaries visiting the city until 1982.  A fire completely destroyed the second and third floor during that year, thus making it impossible for Queen Elizabeth II to stay there on her official state visit to Chile that year.  The second floor was rebuilt and the palace reopened as a museum and declared a national monument in 1981.

Today, it is very sad to see this really very lovely residence, with its adjoining park, be located in an area of town that clearly shows signs of decay. I misjudged the distance from the central metro station, therefore walked about a kilometer along Calle Dieciocho leading to the museum  - nowdays lined with some new, but mostly historic old buildings housing schools and institutes of all kinds. Many of these edifices still show vestiges of by-gone architectural embellishments. It is no wonder that I was married to an architect, my heart goes out to these buildings and I would love to see them all refurbished. By the way, when I finished my visit and asked the friendly concierge how to get back, I was directed to "just across the park" to the closest metro station.

All photographs copyright and courtesy of the museum.

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3. Santiago: Museo de la Moda

Sergio Larraín's one overwhelming critereon for a piece of art to be included in his collection was that it provoke an emotional reaction, regardless of its art historic importance or financial value. Consequently, the extensive collection contains objects of high aesthetic value from many Latin and South-American cultures, many totally unknown to most of us. To quote the website of the museum:  "It was neither the complex technical knowledge, nor the heterogeneous aboriginal economies that attracted the collector, but that far more profound and spiritual message of art".

Some comments:

Wari (ceramic bottle with handles and portrait) and Tiwanaku (llama) were two of the biggest states on the Andes before the Inca.  Although there were many political and economic diffrences between them, which eventually ended in conflict, their art shows their close association.  The same repertoire of images and shapes are used in both states, in stone sculptures as well as in polychrome ceramics and textiles.

Moche culture vitrine: The objects that are found in the tombs of the Moche culture, and which are necessary for the deceased's successful journey, usually refer to the power of men and animals to cause death and to feed off of it, with represenations of warriors, prisoners, birds of prey and felines.  This cultural importance of death was skillfully handled by the authorities, since these objects were made by artisans and workshops controlled by the state.  In this way, the Moche lords controlled people's lives, as well as their passage to death.

Wooden people or Chemamull were important funeral elements of the traditional Mapuche culture. They accompanied the deceased during a ceremony where speeches were made in praise of the dead and later were set up next to the grave.  These rites strictly followed tradition since a careless funeral could mean that the deceased's spirit, instaed of becoming an ancestor who would watch over his/her relatives, would be trapped by some witch and changed into an evil spirit.

By the way, the museum's website is excellent in the amount of in-depth information it gives about the various cultures and objects on show.  And that goes for both the Spanish and English versions!

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The house was made "museum-visitor-friendly" by building an extension and remodeling several rooms.  Now, the visitor can appreciate the main rooms and then continues on to the permanent exhibit of historic tennis equipment, including tennis-ball machine making equipment.  Then follows the current showing (changes every year).  The one I visited is called "War and Seduction" and follows the development of fashion in World Wor I and II, both from a military and civilian point of view.

My resume:  Don't miss this museum (and the Ralli Museum) if you are in Santiago.  These two museum will give you many hours of pleasure and lasting memories.

All photographs are courtesy of Museo de la Moda.

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Somehow, these bad human habits seem to be more prevalent in southern and eastern European countries and I have just witnessed them in rural Argentina and everywhere I visited in Chile, including the capital of Santiago.  Invariably, I was followed by one or more stray dogs.  Almost instinctively these poor beasts knew that they would find an empathetic soul in me.  When I asked local residents, they shrugged and acknowledged, yes, it is a problem, but what can be done about it and looked the other way.  Municipalities seem to do nothing or undertake a yearly poisoning-and-cremation-spree. Local pet shelters or programs are hopelessly overworked, underfunded and understaffed - if they exist at all.

It was especially bad on Easter Island.  There are approx. 4500 year-round residents on the island and easily several hundred stray dogs. As a concerned animal lover, it breaks my heart to see these dogs, free to roam but unwanted and unloved, kept away from properties by persons throwing stones after them. The nightly barking contest was especially obnoxious.  An American resident living outside the town of Hanga Rua, who shelters as many dogs as her family can handle, had just had three dogs (from a total of five) poisoned in one day by an ill-willing neighbor.  Her small children were devastated.  She told me of an American vet who had come five years in a row, volunteering his services, especially to neuter the animals, bringing his own equipment and medicine.  The authorities, instead of welcoming these services, set up so many bureaucratic hurdles, that he ended up quitting his altruistic actions.

What is to be done?  There have been attempts at trying to get university veterinary clinics to donate at least basic vet services, especially neutering. How successful these efforts are, I cannot say; but from the present sheer number of stray dogs in Chilean cities and on Easter Island, I don't think very.  At any rate, these animals deserve a better life.

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A very comfortable five-hour and 3700 km flight from Santiago - LAN has advanced to being my airline of choice at the moment - and a pre-arranged pick up by the hotel owner's daughter made getting to the modest bungalow I had chosen a cinch.  As we left the airport for the seven-minute drive to the hotel, Patty gave a brief tour of the sights:  this is the main road, this is the main intersection, uphill it goes to the church, downhill to the sea, there is no way you can get lost, no matter which way you turn, you will always eventually come back to your starting point - no wonder, the entire island only has a surface of 163.6 sq. km.

By early afternoon, I had my walking shoes on and was off to explore the neighboring area. A warm breeze reminded me that this island enjoys a sub-tropical marine climate and, even though it was just as much winter as on the "Conte" (short for continent, as the mainland is referred to around here), cold means about 18-20 degrees during the day.

Just outside the hotel compound is the local cemetery - cheerful almost, with its many plastic flowers, white-washed grave enclosures and conglomeration of Christian crosses and stones with traditional Rapa Nui symbols. While I was there, two young women came and visited with their dearly departed; over the next two days there always seemed to be someone visiting and in the evening the area was aglow with little solar-powered white, yellow or red lights.

Just a short walk upshore over natural lawn and volcanic rock stood the first Ahu (ceremonial platform) with five Moai (the famous carved stone heads).  A little ways off is the only restored Moai with "seeing" eyes (white coral for the iris and obsidian for the pupil).  And all this literally within steps from my hotel!

In order to see the sights at leisure, I rented a car from my hosts. One of the other guests, Vicky from Auburn, California, readily agreed to come along.  Armed with a perfunctory map and the knowledge that "we couldn't get lost", we set off early morning. The weather gods were merciful and, though ominously cloudy, held back their rain.

The paved road, potholes and all, that services all the major sights is practically empty.  We encounter more ambling horses and cows than turists. This is one of the great advantages of travelling off-season:  Easter Island has a permanent population of approx. 4500 but there are about 50,000 tourists per year, most of whom crowd into the high-season months of December through February.

The flat road hugs the coastline and I am often tempted to just get out and walk on the black volcanic rocks, getting splashed on by the fairly rough sea. Instead, I drive on toward the

Ranu Raraku volcano and its treasure of Moais along its slopes.  There are many that were cut from the stone and presumably rolled down the hill once finished. Although they seem like just large heads, they actually have full torsos; to the uninitiated (like myself) they all look alike, except for the very few who kneel or have salient features.

Finally, we arrive at Ahu Tongariki.  This is the world famous one with the 15 Moais all in a row. What a thrill to be able to get up close and feel the power emanating from these larger-than-life stone figures!  The majesty of these ancestral sculptures, with their simple lines, having survived over centuries make us feel humble and unimportant.  Instinctively, I want to pay hommage to these witnesses of history and quietly sit in front of them for some time.   In the distance, I see a young Rapa Nui man, in traditional (un) dress sits atop a boulder and gaze into the distance ... until his friend comes by on a motorcycle and whisks him away.  So much for getting back to reality!

Driving on, we stop at the Anakena beach cove.  With its fine, soft, white-coral sand, statuesque palm-tree grove and an elevated Ahu with three Moai, it is the epitomy of a kitsch-postcard.  But so much better because it is real life!  There is little garbage as only a few visitors and bathers enjoy the weak Sunday afternoon sun.  So far, there have been absolutely no restaurants or refreshment stands since we left Hanga Roa about three hours ago - souvenir stands all selling the same merchandise, yes, food or beverage, no. Only here at Anakena do we find two huts, both belonging to Gladys, an outspoken Rapa Nui lady and obviously the reigning personality in these parts, with three cats and several chickens roaming around and a typical half-barrel barbeque going.  Gladly do I overpay her for a delicious meat kebab and a coke.  It turns out that the young Rapa Nuian in traditional (un) dress we had met is her grandson.  And a very good-looking chap he is, as are so many Rapa Nuian men and women.  By his own admission, he lives free as a bird, doing as and what he pleases, living simply and happily with practically no money and no clothes on. His grandmother is well aware that nowadays, he can still live this way, but there may be a time soon when social laws and conventions put an end to his free lifestyle.

The next day I visit the local museum, set up by the Father Sebastian Englert. Here, set out in easy to read (Spanish) presentations, are the various theories of how the Moais - of which there are still over 800 -  had been made between the 5^th and 13^th century, how it is thought they were transported to their various sites, how many questions are still open as to where the inspiration came from to sculpt them this way.  It seems established by now that the figures represent ancestors and that the major Ahus upon which they are placed served as ceremonial,  religious, cultural and political centers as well as crematories in some cases.

It also seems certain that a combination of factors, such as overpopulation by the late 17^th century,  contact with the "white man" and his diseases as of the 18^th century, soil erosion and deforestation as well as tribal warfare, slave trade and the consequences of colonialism in the 19^th century contributed to the decimation of population, so that by 1877 there were only 111 Rapa Nuians left.  From that date forward, population did increase; there are anthropoligists who argue that, because of the few survivors left in a basically oral history society, a great deal of cultural knowledge has been lost since that time.

Although Chile annexed the island in 1888, the Rapa Nui people were only granted Chilean citizenship in 1966.  For over 60 years previously, specifically until 1953, the island was basically a sheep farm, rented to the Williamson-Balfour Company; during that time, the islanders were confined to living in the only town, Hanga Roa.

Nowadays, Easter Island is being governed as a province of the Valparaiso region, awaiting enactment of a special charter passed in 2007 by the Chilean government.  As a special concession, Rapa Nuians don't pay sales tax.  This is a small concession, since it hardly makes up for the added freight costs. For merchants, depending on the size of their orders, these costs add between €.50 to €1.40 per kilo to the imported goods.

Why is the Easter Island a  "paradise in peril"? The succinct impression I gathered in speaking to quite a few people who live there is that, although the collapse of the ecosystem that had occurred by the end of the 19^th /mid-20^th century has been halted and it is being partially restored through re-forestation and other active programs, it is not enough.  There is little good topsoil for cultivation of crops.  Potable water is available through bore holes (with gorund water levels sinking), rain water or imported from the mainland.  Getting enough power has been a long standing problem:  due to generators that are too few and/or too weak, cuts in electricity have been common.  Currently, the newest in a series of generators is being installed; solar energy panels are practically non-existant yet because they are too expensive. Waste management is a crucial issue:  Plastics, glass and metals are shipped back to the continent for disposal there - again.  It seems that not long ago, the government had refused to take waste back based on fears that it might contain larvae of the mosquito responsible for Dengue fever. In the meantime this policy has been overturned because - and here I heard two differing stories - it has been established that these larvae cannot survive in the cooler continental climate or there are no Dengue-carrying mosquitoes on the island.

Although only Rapa Nuians can own land and although they have successfully averted a casino being built on the island, how long can/will they hold out until "big tourism" arrives? So far, only one exclusive luxury 30-room "all inclusive" hotel has been set up but already a 5-star hotel with 75 rooms is being built.

Turism is the main source of income and it shows:  goods and services are grossly overpriced for the visitor, even taking the everything-must-be-imported-to-the-island factor into account. In plain English, I had the feeling of being ripped-off with a smile several times, and no one likes that.  By the accounts of its own residents, Easter Island has stopped being the laid-back, happy-go-lucky community it was 10-15 years ago and is now growing up, evolving to the next stage.  May it benefit from global ecological awareness and programs and not become another Cancun, Mallorca or the like!

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As I start wandering around, I notice that, true to the intentions of the owner, there is little information about the artists, other than their names, where they come from and when the work was made.  Harry Recanati feels it is up to each visitor to form his or her own individual opinion, wants to let every work make its own impact on the viewer. No pre-digested art historian's morsels to be found here!

A discreet golden frame contains a photocopied article from a Marbella newspaper informing that Mr. Recanati was a banker who decided to sell his banking interests in England, Switzerland and France and dedicate his life to his passion - collecting art and building not-for-profit museums accessible free of charge to the public.  The first one to open was in the elegant beach resort of Punta del Este in Uruguay in 1987, followed by this one in Santiago in 1992, another one in Caesarea, Israel, 1993; in Marbella, Spain, in 2000. A fifth museum, called "Ralli Museum 2" and dedicated to classical art from the 16^th to the 18^th centuries was opened to the public in Caesarea, Israel in 2007.  Parts of the museum collections travel from museum to museum.  Mr. Recanati's avowed aim is to bring contemporary Latin American artists, a selection of  works from the 15^th to 18^th centuries and the post-impressionist period to the attention of a greater interested public.  To this end, he has developed the most likely most important private collection of Latin and South American artists in the world, encompassing the works of over 800 artists, which is shown in an exhibition area of more than 12.000 sqm. for all five museums.

Another characteristic of the Ralli Museums is their policy of not accepting donations or subsidies from third parties. A fundamental principle is that no commercial activity whatever should take place in the Ralli Museums, meaning there are no gift shops or restaurants.

To quote the only page of the museum on the internet: „We fully agree with the famous French classical painter, Nicolas Poussin, who said: ‚Pleasure is the purpose of art'. Undoubtedly, beauty and pleasure are badly needed to alleviate the extreme tensions that plague our lives nowadays."

Thank you, Mr. Recanati, for your generosity, I accept your invitation to take pleasure in your museum with gratitude!

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And that is just about the state in which this museum in this lovely building is in.  My first impression:  this is supposed to be the paramount state collection of paintings and sculptures?

Let's give the management the benefit of the doubt and suppose that the treasures are hidden away in some depot.  In talking with residents of Santiago who are in the know, however, my suspicions are confirmed:  there are no treasures hidden away, this is pretty much it. The running of the museum is politically appointed, it does not necessarily go to the candidate who is best qualified to do so. Pity.

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But no matter, enough to get a general impression of a city that has been built and rebuilt three times:  founded initially in 1552, then again in 1645, and rebuilt again after the horrific earthquake of May 22, 1960 with a Richter scale peak of 9.5, the tsunami effects of which were felt as far away as Japan and Hawaii.    In the mid 1800s, the Chilean government actively sought immigrants, mainly from Germany, in order to colonize the area. Come they did, bringing their work ethic, culture and beer:  Kunstmann Cerveza (Beer) is one of the most popular brands in Chile and they have their own Beerfest at the end of January; as is Entre Lagos chocolates and marzipan with an enormous - and, of course, delicious - selection of types of chocolates, marmelades, cakes and very creative forms of marzipan fruits and figures.  The Anwandter and the Frick families established schools and museums, which still exist and flourish today.  Now boasting a population of about 156.000 inhabitants, it is also the home of the most important university in the south of Chile.

Of course, fan of open markets that I am, I visited the fish market right next to the river and was rewarded by seeing the main attraction of Valdivia  - sea lions.  I saw six, with one of them posing beautifully for a photo. Most likely because of the fish market and other food sources, there is a large resident colony of sea lions in the local waters, cohabiting peacefully with the human residents, boats, etc.

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The roads in Chile really are very good, even though the toll is not cheap - for these approx. 400 km round trip, I paid a total of  7 Euros.

Upon getting to the Villarica lake there was no sign of a snow-topped volcano.  The clouds were hanging so low, I barely made out that there was a lake!  But driving from the town of Villarica to the town of Pucón (pop. approx. 20.000) along the lake, I could make out that it must be a beautiful area in the Spring and Summer - beaches on one side, hiking up the hills on the other.  Lots summer cabins for rent and many hotels.  One of the most famous, the Hotel Antumalal, directly on the lake shore, was even visited by Queen Elizabeth II in the sixties. The town of Pucón has an alpine look to it. Lots of rustic-style wooden buildings along the main thoroughfare, with summer tourism and outdoor activities being main sources of income:  River rafting, fishing, horse-riding, hiking up the Villarica volcano, into the hills and in the national parks of Villarica and Huerquehue, abseiling - and dipping into the many hot springs of the area.   It is actually possible to ski or snowboard the volcano during the day and enjoy a a relaxing hot spring in the evening.

From Pucón it is "only" another 35 km to Huife, on ever smaller serpentine roads.  The valley kept getting narrower and I started hearing a mountain river.  Then I saw the sign "Hotel and Termas Huife".  It was about 2 p.m. and I was the first visitor on this wintry weekday.  At 12.000 pesos (about 16 Euro), I found the entrance fee expensive for the use of four pools.  Especially, as I later found out, that practically everything else is charged extra.  A 60-minute massage cost 22.000 (approx. 30 Euro), which was reasonable, but the quality, in all honesty, was very mediocre.  The open-air pools themselves were warm and inviting, considering the 4 degree temperature of the air.  There is only one sauna in the spa center (extra charge).  The thermal water, rich in sodium, bicarbonates and potasium,  comes out at 64 degrees Celsius and is cooled down to between 37 and 40 degrees Celsius for the pools.

It is the location, however, that makes Huife special:  at the end of a valley, in the middle of a natural forest, it offers comfortable (and heated!) accommodations, the pools, spa facilities, two restaurants and, in the warmer months, horse-back riding, hiking, etc.

Was I happy to have gone?  Yes, it was fine, but I would only come back if I stayed in Pucón for a vacation.  The 2.5 hour drive back to Temuco in the middle of a rainy evening was a drag, Chilean pop-music non-withstanding.

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Fresia can boast several social housing projects, with houses being made available for the equivalent of approx. 250 Euro for qualified persons. And the town even has a youth orchestra - maybe it is even part of the "El sistema" made famous by Gustavo Dudamel and José Antonio Abreu?

And it is here that my friend Alexander and I arrived in the early morning hours of a rainy day to change to the 4-wheel drive "camioneta" (pick-up truck) he keeps parked at the local police station.  Although I didn't say anything, the thought did occur to me that he may be exaggerating in terms of road conditions, since, up to now, the roads had been excellent. Well, he was right.  No sooner had we passed the gates (see the "Veneno" photo) that the dirt track turned into, well, a king-size dirt track, even having to cross a river bed, now swollen by the rain into a respectable stream.

We passed the house (photo) of two brothers who live there alone and tend to their cattle.  We met one of them, who complained that he had had 14 head of cattle stolen within the last month (the usual count is 2-3 per year).  Whereupon he and Alexander resignedly discussed the lax penal system, which allows these things to happen with nary a persecution, fine or sentence should the thief ever be found.

The rain stopped and Alexander and Marcelo, the head tree-planter, set out to measure the area of the work done with a GPS measuring gizmo.  According to that measurement, the tree-planting team gets paid. I went along, with knee-high rubber boots, raincoat with hood.

Alexander has about 200 ha, which he has planted about half and half with pines and eucalyptus.  But before being able to put the little plants into the fertile earth, he has to have the land cleared of "malezas" (weeds), which include wild blackberries and which are very difficult to eradicate at the root.  After the pine and eucalyptus are planted, all you have to do is wait about 15 years and then you can "harvest" the mature trees and sell them.  In the meantime, of course, you hope there are natural (insect plagues) or unnatural (forest fires) catastrophes that may anihilate the crop.

Stomping up and down the countryside and with drizzle turning into rain, made me stop after about an hour.  Off I went into the warm house and the company of a cat and the daughter of the caretaker, who saw in me a live toy to play with.

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